Friday, December 2, 2022
We awoke early this morning to get a jump on the day as we had a long sail to Marigot, St. Lucia and wanted to arrive before dark. We raised the anchor and left Bequia around 0711. It was a gorgeous day, and the wind was blowing 18-20 knots. It wasn’t long before we were in the lee of St. Vincent which shadowed the wind. We furled the jib, turned on the motors and ran up the island at 5.5 knots.
As soon as we reached the slot between St. Vincent and St. Lucia, we were met with 8-foot seas and wind blowing 22 to 24 knots. So we unfurled the jib and flew across the passage at 8-10 knots. Of course, Ben and John were ecstatic as we were passing every boat around us. You know—“two boats and it’s a race”—whether the other boat knows it or not!
We had decided to pass the Pitons by this time as there had been some boat boardings and robberies in the area. It was sad this was happening because we love hanging under the towering Pitons. Maybe St. Lucia will have it sorted out by the time we return at the end of the season.
We arrived at cute Marigot Bay at 1700 just in time to get moored and hightail it into customs. They stayed open late for us since it was a Friday.
We enjoyed a nice waterfront dinner at the marina’s Hurricane Hole, but the food was quite expensive as a hamburger that was only about 4 bites was $35 US. That was more than on the island of Tahiti. We were to find that the marina was under new management and all the prices had gone up. Mooring balls were now $1 a foot and they were charging $110 US a person (with unlimited food and drink) to use the pool. I don’t think $220 a day is in our cruising budget even including food and drink. Thus, we will be skipping the pool and finding other places to spend our money. However, the marina was a convenient place to get laundry done for $20 US a load. Just be sure to check back as they were not good about informing when it had been completed.
Saturday, December 3
While the boat boys in the bay could be somewhat relentless, they also could be helpful. Bozo (yes that’s the name he used) brought us fresh bread and told us about a rental car for $60 US a day. We looked for a better deal but unless we took a cab to the airport for $80, local cars were around $100 a day.
It turned out the rental car from Bozo was with JJ’s Paradise Resort. So we made a reservation to pick it up on Sunday.
Another boat guy sold cute bowls made of palm fronds. He even made a special bowl with birds and fish for me as a present. Super nice guy!
There was a little peninsula beach at Marigot Bay. We dinghied over to Doolittle’s Restaurant and Bar to check it out, but never made it to the beach. We got sidetracked by Doolittle’s pool. If we bought a drink and an appetizer, we could use the pool. Thus for $30 US we found a nice pool to enjoy and some great calamari and a BBC. Yum! We relaxed in the pool and visited with people from Germany and England.
Sunday, December 4
After checking out our Subaru rental car, we chose to make a circular drive around the island starting with the east side since we had never explored this side before. We headed to a garden that was on google maps, but once we located it, it looked like it had been closed for a while. Nevertheless, the views along the drive were spectacular.
We stopped at an overlook at Anse Canot from where we had a great view of the town and Dennery Island.
By the time we rounded the corner to the southern part of the island, we all decided we were famished. So we stopped at a roadside bar and grill, Shipwreck. I had my doubts about the place when the first thing we were offered was blood sausage. I said, “Absolutely not,” but Ben not knowing what it was said, “Sure!” and John joined him just to be friendly. Ug—not me!
However, it turned out the people at the small diner were quite friendly. We ended up getting chicken and pork meals at a nominal price, which were more than any one person could eat. It was always fun to try out local foods at an island hangout.
The Bar and Grill was located right on the beach and the views were wonderful. We saw a group of fishermen net fishing.
After lunch we went into the second largest city on St. Lucia, Vieux Fort where the major airport was located.
We traversed the southernmost tip mountain in hopes to gain a view of the 2nd highest lighthouse in the world, Moule a Chique Lighthouse, 730 feet above sea level. While we couldn’t find a way to reach the lighthouse, the views from the mountain were magnificent.
As we began to negotiate the winding road up the west coast, we once again were awed by the majestic piton mountains for which St. Lucia is famous.
We stopped to gap at the cute fishing towns of Soufriere and Anse Cochon.
It was a long day, but totally worth it. The island was so beautiful and lush! For dinner we will eat leftover Chicken Alfredo and call it night!
Monday, December 5
Today we headed north to the capital city of Castries and on to Rodney Bay and Pigeon Island National Park. The capital was full of one-way streets which Google maps did not always get right. So after turning the wrong way on a one way street and people exclaiming, “That guy, he don’t know the roads!” we found our way to the market.
The booths were full of fun souvenirs, some of which we just had to have. My dermatologist will be happy to know that I bought a hat in addition to a dress I could use as a swimsuit coverup.
John found an awesome wall hanging for his office and a mask to add to his collection. Ben got a shirt and a St. Lucia bandana. So I think we did all right.
I also bought some green onions, tomatoes and lettuce from the fresh market. Then we sat down for lunch at one of the local booths. The kingfish was so good! Lunch was made even better when some nomads from France joined us. The girl, Anne had just completed an Atlantic crossing on a boat that lost its steering linkage in the middle of the ocean only to find out that the emergency tiller did not fit. However, they were able to modify the emergency tiller and use the autopilot to finish the crossing to Martinique. She had met up with a friend of hers who had traveled from Grenada to St. Lucia. They were on a 3-month holiday from their jobs. Good for them!
Every person that we had met on St. Lucia from the marina staff, beach bars, parking lot, and market were all super nice. They even had nice signage. Haha!
We drove through the traffic laden roads past Rodney Bay where the ARC boats were arriving daily after making their Atlantic crossings. The beach at Pigeon Island was lovely. So we sat a beach bar and had some ice cream.
Tuesday, December 6
Our goal today was to snorkel at Sugar Beach. However, when you were exploring a new environment, sometimes you just go slow and take it as it comes. As we were heading toward a chocolate factory I had located, I told Ben turn off on a small road down to lovely Cochon beach. I had read that this was a great place to snorkel. However, once we arrived, we found that the wrap around north swell had the entire bay rocking and rolling. The beach was lovely though and the resort staff at Ti Kaye Resort were super nice. They let us park onsite and offered for us to eat lunch or use the chairs on the beach. I settled on a mimosa. We hoped that maybe we would make it back here on another day to hang out and snorkel when the seas were calmer.
We encountered more friendly folks at the Cocoa Sainte Lucie chocolate factory where they sell delectable handmade chocolate treats. John and I were definitely in our happy place. The views from the store were as amazing as the chocolate. What a find!!
Our next detour on the way to Sugar Beach was to the Piton waterfall and mineral bath, and what a delightful detour.
We walked through the lush jungle until we reached a trickle fall that fed into the mineral baths below. Supposedly we would look 10 years younger after swimming. You be the judge!
The literature I read on this spot was very underwhelming but I’m so glad we stopped here because the hike, the warm bath and the glimpse of the piton was spectacular!!
We finished our drive to Sugar Beach resort, but it was late, the light was fading, and it was sketchy as to whether they would let us in. So we called it a day and headed back to Marigot Bay.
I think John’s last day with us was a super successful treat all the way around. I mean beach, chocolate, and waterfall, how can you beat that!!
Meanwhile we would relax here in St. Lucia for about a week until our next set of friends arrive. I think I’m ok with that! What a wonderful place to hang out, Succulent St. Lucia!
Also since St. Lucia is the Banana Island, I thought it was a perfect place to master making banana bread in the bread machine. Why the bread machine you ask? First, the machine can run off solar without the generator as it draws very little electricity. Second, it does not heat up the cabin like the electric or propane oven. Third, it mixes and bakes in the same pan causing less dishes to wash. So totally a win! Thus, check out the Tips and Tools for the recipe for Bread Machine Banana Bread!
What’s next, you ask? Well, you’ll have to tag along to learn about our next adventure as we head north! Stay with us!
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