Leaving Antigua after two months was bittersweet. We toured a large portion of Antigua by land and sea and even had made our way to and from Barbuda. (Check out prior blogs for details). However, it was not all rainbows and sunshine.
Rainbow!
We had heard from other cruisers that sometimes Customs and Immigration could be difficult. Initially, we had not had an issue when we checked in to the country, but that quickly changed when Ben tried to check us out. He was thoroughly reprimanded because we did not take Shelly and Don off our crew list prior to their departure by plane over a month ago. We thought they had checked out of the country when they went to the airport, but NOT SO! We were supposed to remove them from our crew list 24 hours before they left according to some little-known immigration policy. Unless Ben wanted a fine, he had to, on the spot, hand write the head of immigration a sincere apology letter stating his regret for having made this incorrigible oversight. So, grovel he did. Whew!
Thus, while we were somewhat sad to be leaving this lovely island, we were less sorry than we would have been with this bitter taste in our mouths. So goodbye Antigua, until next time…
Fri., March 24, 2023
We had a very pleasant sail to Deshaies, Guadeloupe among a number of other boats all taking advantage of the nice weather window. We arrived around 1430 to a very full anchorage, but after circling a bit we finally found a suitable spot for the night right next to some folks we had met in Grenada.
Customs was in a small souvenir shop on the main drag. They were closed from 1300-1500. So our arrival in town at 1530 was perfect. We completed the online form. The clerk printed the document, stamped it, and after paying $5 EUs, we were IN!
We wondered around town a bit, bought some French pastries and ice cream, and headed back to the boat. We called around to see if we could rent a car for a few days as I was hot to explore this town and the surrounding areas. We found a place that had a car available on Sunday at Discount Auto. Now, our next task was to determine how to get to the rental location at Fort Royal Hotel because it was located a bit out of town.
Sat. March 23
Since the anchorage was quite blowy, and we were planning to leave the boat for hours, we decided to move to a different location closer in where we could let out some extra anchor road. Then we went into town to see if we could locate a taxi to take us the rental car agency in the morning. We walked all over town but didn’t find any taxi’s roaming around. Nevertheless, we enjoyed walking about even though almost everything closed early on Sat. The town was only about two-three streets wide. The church in the middle of town was very picturesque and rang its bells every hour on the hour.
There was a large cemetery on the hillside that looked a little spooky with all its tiny “buildings.”
We finally ended up at a waterfront restaurant and bar where Ben got ice cream and I had a drink. My pina colado was pretty good, but when I order a glass of champagne it was served over ice in a goblet, I had to take a double take, as this was a French island after all. Who does that?
I didn’t complain though because the bartender had agreed to take us out to Fort Royal Hotel tomorrow at 0900 to pick up our car. I didn’t want to mess that up!
The waterfront of Deshaies was very quaint with a beach and lots of waterfront eating and drinking establishments. In fact, this cute little town and the surrounding area was used in the show Death in Paradise. I found it funny that a British show was made on a French Island where most of the French people never saw it.
The bay of Deshaies was surrounded by gorgeous cliffs and the water was extremely clear. Daggers Down looked right at home.
While the restaurant on the hillside, Chez Ernest, was supposed to be very good, we didn’t partake this time, but there is always next time!
Sunday, March 26
As we entered town this morning it became apparent where the most important place on Sunday to be was the Patisserie! There was a line waiting for the doors to open. French pastries and coffee were very popular.
True to his word, the bartender met us at the restaurant at 0900, but not before I listened to surf as it splashed on to the shore.
We picked up the car without a hitch and off we went down the coast rode on the west of the island to pick up some “friends” we had been trying to hook up with for several years. We had met these folks briefly in Kemah, way back when, but since had never landed at the same spot where we could get together. Today was finally the day to get better acquainted with Joe and Katy from SV Inca Cross.
Our first stop on the island tour was the ZOO!
SV Inca Cross and SV Daggers Down
The zoo was landscaped beautifully, and we enjoyed searching for the animals in their enclosures.
I had read that the zoo had several swinging bridges up in the canopy, but I didn’t realize that the bridges were not built for a good view of the animals. They were an attraction in of all of themselves. I am not sure how many bridges we walked across, but there was no going back once we started and it took a bit, because only two people could walk across a bridge at a time. After crossing a bridge, you waited on a platform until the peeps in front of you had reached the next platform. I lost count of how many bridges we traversed.
I have to say I was glad when we finished this activity, but it was beautiful to be up among the green foliage. We even saw Pigeon Island on the west coast.
After several hours at the zoo, we were all famished. As we were crossing the island through the national park, I wasn’t sure what kind of eateries we might find, but we lucked out. We ate at a charming restaurant among the mountains with a great view of the east coast.
The food was delicious, and the company was superb!
After such a scrumptious lunch, we decided a hike to a waterfall was in order. We drove to Cascade aux Ecrevisses. Evidently this was a popular place, but we finally found a parking spot.
The walk to the falls was easy on a stone trail that ran along the rambling stream as waterfall run off. It was lovely and the weather was perfect.
The waterfall was nice until it became overran with people when two tour buses unloaded. I couldn’t get out of there fast enough. Too bad, because I love hanging out by waterfalls.
Next we drove up the northeast coast of the Basse-Terre island which was covered with sugar cane. We stopped at a beach and were amazed by the surf as it roared onshore and then gentle spread across the golden beach.
As we negotiated the north top of the island, we realized that the day was waning and we were going to need to get our new friends back to their anchorage. In addition, since it was Sunday, all the beaches on the west size of the island were packed to the gills!
It was a wonderful fun day touring the north part of Basse-Terre Island with Joe and Katy. Hopefully we would meet up with them again as we explored the lovely islands that make up Guadeloupe.
Monday, March 27
We began the day at the Botanical Gardens outside Deshaies, Jardon Botanique. We arrived early in hopes to beat most of the tour buses. The gardens were very well planned out and immaculately kept. Even Ben, who was not the most likely to love gardens, found himself enjoying the leisurely walk among the varied plants.
There were flowers of all types and colors including several varieties of orchids!
All the ornamental flowers were surrounded by lush green plants and some unique trees.
There were multiple variety of palms trees as well as a cacti garden.
Water features were located throughout the gardens, including ponds of fish and an area for flamingoes. There was even a manmade waterfall.
Beside flamingos, there were lots of other birds, parrots, and macaws.
Ben and I were so glad we made the time to visit this treasure of Deshaies.
For lunch we went to the Plage de la Perle where part of the show Death in Paradise had been filmed. The beach was a wide expanse of golden sand with the same roaring waves that crashed and then spread delicately across the shore. I was surprised with the ferocity of the waves, but I guess being this far north, it still received big seas wrapping around the island from the Atlantic.
After eating two lunches out, we have learned that if you eat local food, it would be a big meal for lunch! The waiter asked if I liked the rice when so much was left on my plate. I said yes it was just soooo much!
How the French stayed thin eating pastries for breakfast, a major meal for lunch, drinking cocktails before dinner and then eating dinner late into the evening was beyond me!
Since the day was still young, we drove south along the coast road to Plage de Malendure. Sitting off the coast of this beach was Pigeon Island where we planned to anchor next. It was good to get a lay of the land before setting sail. We were extremely surprised by the amount of tourist along this part of the island. There were cars parked up and down the coast for several miles. Wow!
Nevertheless, we were looking forward to anchoring here and snorkeling at Pigeon Island. We had heard it was a remarkable snorkel spot!
Tuesday, March 28
The bartender agreed to pick Ben up at the rental car place this morning and bring him back into town. How was that for French hospitality? We enjoyed our stay here in the northern part of Guadeloupe. It was definitely worth the time and energy to explore!
Now it was time to make our way south to Pigeon Island! So stay tuned—would the snorkeling make the grade….?
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