It has been a bit since I’ve written a blog as I was unable to charge my computer because the charger had failed. However, we finally found a new power cord in Guadeloupe. Of course it’s a 220v cord, but luckily, we still have some French outlets on the boat. Whew!
December 2025
A quick excursion to Les Saintes
We arrived in Dominica from Martinique around the middle of December to wait for Cuz John’s and Drew’s arrival. Since we had some time to kill as they wouldn’t arrive until Jan 1, we conned Whitney from Maford House Café to join us (we didn’t have to twist her arm very hard) for a quick jaunt over to Les Saintes as I thought it might be decorated up for Christmas. I found a few decorations there, but it was overall somewhat disappointing in this regard. Nevertheless, Les Saintes of Guadeloupe was a fun place to hang out for a few days.
We snagged a mooring ball right in front of Hotel Bois Joli. It was our first time in this mooring field. It was a little rolly and a long, wet dinghy ride to town, but the hotel’s Christmas decorations were marvelous. So I was happy!
In town we shopped, found some provisions, and of course sat by the beach and drank champagne. I mean we were in France after all!
The excursion was too short, but Whitney had to get back to work. Christmas Eve, we traveled back across the channel to Dominca.
Fun Times with Sue and Ad
When we arrived, we found SV Andira anchored in the bay with Ad and Sue, our British friends. Let the fun continue!
For Christmas Day, I cooked pork tenderloin with green bean casserole, and rice and gravy. We had cheesecake bites (from Maford House Café) and homemade pecan pie for dessert. England does not have pecan pie, but Ad thought it was delectable. Sue told us that typically Ad was not a sweet eater, but it was hard to tell from the way he scarfed down the pie and cheesecake bites!
Island Tour
Kalinago Barana Aute’
Ad and Sue had never explored Dominca before. Thus, we rented a car and began their island tour. On the first day we went to the east side of the island to the Kalinago Barana Aute.
Afterwards, we tried to have lunch at Paguay House which was one of our favorite restaurants on the island, but I guess because it was Sunday, they were super busy. So we opted to eat at the Coral Reef in Calibishie on the NE coast. This bar and grill was located right on the water. The food was local fare and the views were amazing.
That night we had a Farckel rematch and Ad won again. I think I will take him to Vegas next time we go!
Waterfalls and More
The following 2 days were a quest for waterfalls. We started at Trafalgar Falls where the road was quite torn up from a water line they were installing. I hoped the pipeline did not affect the flow of the beautiful falls—Mama and Papa.
We had a nice lunch at a local bar and grill where we ate some surprisingly good fried chicken. It was worth the wait as it was freshly cooked.
We had planned to hike the trail to Emerald Pool, but the bridge on the trail was out so we had to go in the exit which put us right by the falls. As it was already 1500, we decided it was time to head back to the boat. It was a good thing we did too, because Google Maps took un on an interesting drivee back down a road that was more like a riverbed. In fact, we wondered if there was going to be a bridge at the river, or if we would have to cross it in the car or turn around and retrace our steps. Luckily the bridge was intact, and the road got a lot better atter that. I was glad about the paved road, because the ride thus far had been jarring, we had no cell signal, and I didn’t want to be in the remote area when it got dark! I wished I had taken pictures, but we were more intent on just making it!
The next day we continued our waterfall quest with a fun hike through the jungle to Bwa Nef (New wood). As we began the trail, we happened upon a man who said the land was his land. He wanted 100 EC ($37 USD for 4 of us) as compensation to use his land. However, this was a good deal as he pointed out fruits and vegetation along the way and had fresh coconut water awaiting us when we returned. We had not met this man the other time we had walked to the falls, but it was to be a nice treat! These falls were spectacular as you think there was nothing there until you round the corner and see it cascading downward. I didn’t know what kept the boulder up at the top, but I wouldn’t want to be there if it ever fell. The guide insisted it was nothing to worry about!
For New Years eve, Sue and Ad retuned to Daggers Down for dinner as this would be our last night together for some time. They were returning to the Med and their new home in Cyprus! Wow! I guess we will just have to go visit them!
We had steaks that we purchased in Martinique, baked potatoes and salad. I made another pecan pie so that Ad could take some with him. He seemed very pleased with this decision!
January 1, 2026—Let the new year begin!
Cuz John and Drew Arrive
Cuz John and his stepbrother, Drew, arrived at the boat from the airport around 1600. I knew they would be hungry, so I had dinner ready for them. We feasted on a picnic ham cooked in the instant pot, black-eyed peas (for luck) and salad. For dessert the guys were introduced to Maford House Café Cheesecake Bites! Yum!
These guys were only going to be on the island for two days as we needed to head north to Guadeloupe for Drew to fly out. He was here to see what in the world this living on the boat was all about.
To give them the flavor of the island, we hiked through the jungle to yet another waterfall, Syndicate Falls. This hike was through the river and over boulders like Bwa Nef but not quite as strenuous. The falls were crowded and parking was an issue, but with help, we found a spot.
Syndicate Falls was very close to Portsmouth, so it was an easy one to go to when time was limited.
After the hike, we had a lovely lunch of Fish and Chips at Maford House Café in the back beer garden overlooking the water.
The next day, I decided to spend the day with Whitney since I wouldn’t get to see her for a bit. The guys worked on getting everything on the boat ready to move. After the laborious task of filling jerry cans with diesel and dinghying them back to the boat, they came to Maford House Café for some of Whitney’s yummy hamburgers with homemade buns.
Guadeloupe
Les Saintes
We left early the next day and sailed across to Les Saintes. We were hoping to get a ball at Ilet a Cabrits so that we could snorkel. The wind was light but there was enough breeze to at least give Drew some sailing time.
This mooring field by Cabrits was usually full, but today we were in luck as there were several open balls. The point at the east end turned out to be some of the best snorkeling we have seen in the islands. These pictures do not do it justice as the coral was abundant and colorful!
Our next stop was Le Gosier on the south side of the Guadeloupe island of Grand Terre, close to Point-a-Pitre. We had to motor from Les Saintes as the wind was dead calm. It had been extremely calm these last few weeks with almost no rain, which was odd for this time of year!
This cute anchorage was located by a tourist town. Going ashore to people watch at a beach bar while getting a bite to eat made for a delightful afternoon.
Grand-Tere
After two nights at Le Gosier we headed into the Bas Du Fort Marina at Pointe-a-Pitre, Guadeloupe. Getting into the marina could be challenging if there was gusty wind, but today, it was basically calm. It was a med moor, where you connect the bow to a mooring ball and then back up to tie off at the dock. The marina packed the boats in so that you were typically fender to fender with the boats beside you. But with Ben at the helm, we slid in nicely.
Ben had rented a car online at Marina Car Rental. After checking into the marina, he went and got the car. Now we were free to explore. We took Drew and John to the picturesque peninsula of Point des Chateaux on the southeast side of Grand-Terre. We stopped at the markets at St. Anne and bough a few souvenirs and Colombo spice. We see Colombo de Poulet on the menu everywhere. So we thought we might try to make it ourselves. Check out Instant Pot Colombo Chicken for the recipe.
For more information regarding Grand-Terre and other islands of Gwada peruse these prior blogs.
- Guadeloupe: Deshaies a Darling Spot
- Guadeloupe and It’s Glorious Diversity
- Guadeloupe and Martinique: French Ooh La La!
- Guadeloupe where Snorkeling is Sweet
- Guadeloupe: Exploring with Friends, Shelley and Don
After a few more days of sightseeing, Drew had to head back to reality. So Ben and John took him to the plane and said Au Revoir!
Cuz John had planned to be with us at least another couple of weeks, but sometimes life just gets in the way, and it looked like he would need to fly out before we left the marina! Boo Hiss.
So we took him on one last tour of the east side of Grand-Terre where there were beautiful beaches. The first beach we explored was Plage Du Souffleur outside of Port Louis (pronounced pol wi).
The cemetery by this beach was a little spooky but also intriguing. Evidently each family had one of these little houses for their family members. Most crypts seemed more ornate than the actual houses in the villages.
The next beach north of Port Louis was near the town of Anse Bertrand. We should have eaten lunch here as we soon found it was slim pickins’ to find an open eatery on a Sunday, even in town.
We stopped at a little beach outside the town of Les Abymes, Plage de Babin, but we didn’t dottle here because we were getting hungry.
We finally found an open boulangerie where we had some marginally good ham croissants and pizza, but the pasties were wonderful We even bought Gwada’s version of King Cake to give it a try. It was a layered brioche type cake with some coconut filling. We were not enamored with it, but it was fun to try new things! They eat this cake around the Epiphany. They were selling like hotcakes at the store!
Then, it was time to say Goodbye to John. Ben took him to the airport and turned in the rental car. We made the boat ready for another passage as we would leave the marina tomorrow.
It was a great end to the year 2025 and wonderful beginning to 2026 with so many friends, family and adventures. We are looking forward to the rest of 2026, but at this point we are not sure where the wind will take us next…so stay tuned!
Happy New Year! Hope it is a happy and blessed one! Be safe and Be kind!
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