Dominica: Eureka! Part 2
April 13-24, 2023
There is so much to do in Dominica that this will be the fourth blog regarding this lovely island. Over the last year we have spent about 2-3 months here. For more extensive information see:
Dominica: Eureka! The Motherlode of Beauty and Activity
Dominica, A Bountiful and Luscious Island of Proud Friendly People
Even though we have visited Dominica several times, we never tire of seeing the sights. This time we revisited some of our favorite places with SV Inca Cross, Joe and Katy and later with Ron Sussman. We also found some new sights that I’m sure you will enjoy.
Trafalgar Falls, Red Rocks, and Hiking to Syndicate Falls
Trafalgar Falls: Pappa and Mama Falls
Red Rocks (for information about this formation)
Hiking to Syndicate Falls
Syndicate Waterfall was a sight to see!
We also found some new places to explore!
Cold Soufiere
On the north side of the island, we took the easy walk through the lowlands to Cold Soufriere. As we rounded the corner we were hit with the sulfur smell of the water. The volcanic fissure was bubbling up cold water instead of hot volcanic water like other places on the island. Because of the touted sulfuric water’s medicinal value, a lady was filling a big water jug to use when showering.
Bwa Nef Falls
Another attraction on the north side that we located was the Bwa Nef Falls. The trailhead for this fall was just south of Southern Penville. Google identified the trail to be in the town of Penville, but we had to travel more south to find the actual trail. The sign for the trail was on the uphill side of the road at a curve by a wide bridge.
The hike was pretty easy on a narrow path that led down into the valley surrounded by extremely high cliffs. There were a few river crossings, but it was settled weather, so they were simple to cross. The trail was rocky in places with large boulders to navigate. The waterfall was hidden from view until we rounded the corner, where it appeared before us. Wow, it was a beautiful sight and well worth the walk!
Calibishie on the East Coast
While we had traveled through this cute town many times, we had never stopped to explore it. We went on a Sunday afternoon, so it was a lazy village, and we enjoyed chatting with all the folks along the road.
We arrived too early for lunch, but there were two restaurants side by side with beautiful ocean views that we may try in the future:
- Seaview Restaurant whose proprietor was quite friendly, and
- Coral Reef Bar and Restaurant that was recommended by a friend. It was located on the water behind a storefront. Thus it was easily missed unless you know what you were looking to find.
Instead, we ate some Bakes and an egg sandwich from a roadside vendor. The houses in the town vary from super nice to cute village houses. There was also a lovely beach on the edge of town. A local artist has a store there, but the sign was difficult to locate.
Indian River Tour in Portsmouth
Another first for us was to take the Indian River tour. We went on the tour with folks from SV Seascape, Shane and Tanya and SV Inca Cross, Joe and Katy. If you decide to take the tour down this lovely river, be sure to go in the morning when it would be cooler. I had been reluctant to take this tour because I had heard the bugs could eat you alive. Yet, while I took bug spray, I never had to use it.
It was required that this tour be with a guide as no motors were allowed on the river. The guide, named Spaghetti, rowed us up and down the river and pointed out birds and land crabs as well as identified several of the trees for us.
We floated past the “witch’s house” that was used in Pirates of the Caribbean movie. We also stopped at bar for a bit where people had some fruit juice and walked the lush trails around the bar.
Snorkeling in Cabrits
We had snorkeled in Toucari as described in a previous blog, but we had never taken the dinghy into Cabrits Marine Park, Douglas Bay. The weather was almost flat calm one day. So we dinghied around the point to the beach. We found some rock reefs where we snorkeled. The fish were mostly small, but we enjoyed the site. Besides fish and rock formations, we got a glimpse of a few turtles and some squid.
The next day, we dinghied across Prince Rupert Bay over by Secret Harbor hotel. We snorkeled around the cliffs near the beach. The huge rocks were full of interesting crevices and small fish.
Maford House Cafe
Of course, a trip to Dominica would not be complete without stopping off at Maford House Café for some fresh bread, fish and chips, burgers, and scrumptious cheesecake bites.
Whitney is very cruiser friendly, and she makes her patrons feel at home in her beer garden by the water. She even hosted a private fish taco cruiser party for a group of our friends and invited the interesting Dominican Historian, Lennox, who loves to share stories about the island.
Moored on a ball in Prince Rupert Bay supplied by Portsmouth Association of Yacht Services (PAYS) was a wonderful place to swim, work on the boat (as there are always chores) and watch the sunsets looking for the elusive green flash.
We actually saw a green flash one night as we dined in Tourcari at the bar and grill Keepin’ It Real with Ron and, Hartley and Krista of SV Windward.
30th Wedding Anniversary, April 24, 2023
We could not think of a better place to spend our anniversary than in the Caribbean and at the succulent island of Dominica. A few friends joined us at one of our favorite restaurants, Infinity. Nerick offers a great menu, and the food is always divine! Whitney, of Maford House Cafe even brought some cheesecakes to top off the festivities! It was a wonderful night and great way to end this visit to Dominica as tomorrow we continue south. But no worries, we will return as there is still more to see and do! Dominca: Eureka!
Things we still need to do in Dominica:
North
Snorkel north side of Toucari
South
Snorkel at Scotts Head
Explore the little villages on the south side
West
Hang out at Coconut Beach (West)
Snorkel Salisbury beach
East
Hike to Batibou or Number One Beach (east side)
Hang out at Woodford Hill Beach
Eat at Coral Reef Bar and Grill
Eat at Seaview Restaurant
Hike to black sand beach off of Red Rocks
Central
Drive to and picnic at Freshwater Lake
That’s a wrap for this visit to Dominca. Don’t worry there will be more to come next sailing season! Stay with us as we continue our journey back to Grenada for Hurricane season. Martinique, here we come!
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