Yorktown and Gloucester Point, VA
June 5, 2021
We raised anchor about 9:00 this morning and went to the docks to take on some water. The current was stiff but we finally docked without incident. Then we left the cute little Hampton cove behind and headed for Yorktown.
There were several fleets of sailboats involved in a bay regatta. In fact, we ended up towing one boat out of the channel because it was having engine difficulties. The wind was very light, but the races were going on nevertheless. We ended up motoring most of the way to Yorktown, because even our screecher would not hold air.
We arrived at our destination around 3:30, but to our dismay the shallow anchorage next to town, that we had read about, was totally full of crab pots. This was very disappointing as we had wanted to explore the historic town.
We decided to head across the river to Gloucester Point and anchored outside York River Yacht Haven marina. It was a very pleasant anchorage surrounded by cute houses and trees. Lots of boats from fisherman to crab boats to sailboats slid by us throughout the day.
For dinner we went to the marina restaurant to eat and try to obtain their wifi password. The restaurant was extremely popular, but we were quickly seated in a booth inside in the air conditioning. We had tuna fish bites and calamari, and I had a perfectly flavored pina colada. However, our mission of securing the wifi password went unfulfilled. They gave us a password, but it did not work, and the waiter stated that he had never gotten it to work. So we surmised that they really did not want us to have the password.
As we returned to the dinghy, we met Tom (his wife was named, Pat) who was anchored next to us in a trawler named Discipleship. He was extremely nice and shared a wealth of information as he had lived in this part of the world for many years. He said they had dinked over to Yorktown in the morning when the wind was light and the seas were flat. They really enjoyed their visit.
Back on the boat and we ate some ice cream for dessert. It was really good as today had been a hot one. In fact Ben finally got the AC working for the night. I decided I might have to find money in the budget to run the AC while we were in this part of the world. It costs about $30 a night, so I am calling it a “camping fee”. Yet, that could quickly add up if we ran it every night.
This morning we went to Yorktown in the dinghy as Tom had suggested. It was a pleasant 15 min. ride across the bay because the wind was light and the seas were flat. At the city dock, we were allowed to leave our dinghy for the day for $5.00. We walked around the Riverwalk Landing for a bit and then decided to take the free trolley to the battlegrounds. However, we were informed we could not get on the trolley without masks as it was considered public transportation. We found an open Segway store and they gave us two masks. Yay! So back to the trolley we went.
The battleground visitor’s center had just reopened last weekend, but it seemed that none of the exhibits were open. They had a driving tour of the battlefield, but when we informed the lady that we did not have a car, she said, “She didn’t know how to deal with that.” Haha. She simply gave us a map and directions to walk back into town taking in the other historical sights.
It was a lovely walk, especially in the shade. Main street was closed to motor traffic, so we ambled down the street reading about the different historic homes (which still were closed to the public).
We walked back to the beach area and found a cave where Cornwallis supposedly commanded during the seize on Yorktown. Eighty percent of the town was damage before Cornwallis surrendered to Washington.
We lunched at the historic Yorktown Pub. I ordered clam chowder and Ben ate a Rueben. They were both excellent.
As we strolled along the beach (where sand had been trucked in) to the dinghy, we were amazed at all the people who were laying in the sun and swimming in the water. It was hot enough that I’m sure the brisk water felt refreshing, but I think it still would be chilly.
When we got to the dinghy, we saw another dingy that had Texas tags on it. It was interesting how many folks we see around who were from the Texas area.
Since Daggers Down had been sitting in the sun all day, we decided to open all the windows to let out the heat and shop at the marina ship’s store. They had several items we needed at reasonable rates.
As we began to explore the tributaries of Sarah’s creek, we ran into the same dinghy we had seen over in Yorktown. We got to talking with Don and Shelly Clements who were from Grapevine, TX. They bought a Catalina 42, ClemenTime in Georgia and had been keeping it in New Bern, NC close to their daughter. Don grew up in the area, but it was Shelly’s first time to sail in the Chesapeake. We invited them over so that we could share some weather info, and Don said Ben could use his dinghy to look at the plug on our dinghy. It would be nice to fix the ongoing leaking problem.
When we returned to our boat, Tom stopped by for a chat. We discussed a couple of places we planned to visit while in Chesapeake. He shared his phone number and email in case we needed further information.
Not long after Tom left, Don and Shelly arrived with Champagne in hand. My kind of people! Don and Ben talked weather and together they reseated the plug on the dinghy—hope that fixes it! Meanwhile Shelly and I visited like old friends. It turned out that she also was a retired educator. In addition, we were both planners so the unpredictableness of cruising life played havoc with our planning skills!
They were staying in the marina for a month. So they shared the wifi password with us! Too bad they were flying back to DFW tomorrow. We don’t know when we might run into them again, but it was a lovely evening and we hoped to see them out on the water!
Once again we turned on the AC before going to bed as it had been a hot day!
June 7, 2021
Let me tell you there is always something to fix when you live on a boat. Shortly after we opened our eyes this morning, we heard the AC kick off. DANG! After a short investigation, Ben determined it was the generator that stopped. So now he would have to troubleshoot this problem.
Meanwhile, I cleaned the bathroom as soon as I got up so it would be done before the hull became too hot! Then I caught up on my blog and paid bills.
Each morning crab boats came by checking on their traps, and let me tell you there were traps EVERYWHERE in this creek and in the river. It was hard to imagine that there were so many crabs around us. Amazing!
Ben continued to work on the generator and finally got it to work. So hopefully we would have AC tonight, because we were sweating buckets at this point.
Ben also spent time checking the port engine for an oil leak as it appeared that a small amount of oil was in the bilge. He could not find anything wrong, but he made some calls regarding engine boat repair. He did not find any immediate help, but he might have found a place where we could complete a haul out in Aug or Oct. It looked like Zimmerman’s had a lift large enough for us and also had the mechanics needed to assist with installing a second set of throttles, checking engines, etc. So that was a relief.
About 5:30, Ben turned on the generator so that I could use the toaster oven; however, the generator would only run for a few minutes before shutting off. So not only could I not use the toaster oven, we also would not AC tonight. Luckily, I had the propane oven so that I could still cook the chicken pot pie. I had been trying not to use propane because it heats up the saloon a lot.
Ben was very dejected during dinner. He was at a loss as to why the generator didn’t work. He had cleaned the strainers, the fuel separator and he could see water coming into it. While it shouldn’t be the impeller because we don’t have that many hours on it, I guess tomorrow he will replace that and see if it helps. Very frustrating.
We were fortunate that rainfall was not predicted tonight and there were not a lot of bugs because we slept with all the windows open in the hull and the fans running full blast.
June 8, 2021
Ben started in on the generator as soon as he finished with his coffee. He changed out the impeller since we were out of other options as to why we were getting a raw water error. My heart sank for him when I looked at the old impeller and it seemed fine. He went ahead and put in the new impeller. Now, we held our breath in hopes that this would solve our problem…but NO such luck!
Ben called Land and Sea in Kemah, who installed the generator. They indicated that there was a flow switch that might have gone bad. They had sold us one in the beginning because Ben had asked what parts typically fail. Ben quickly replaced this part, and the generator began to run. This time we left it on as now both the generator and the AC were finally working. Yippee!
I used only the microwave to make dinner in order not to heat up the saloon. We had leftovers from last night and then ice cream for dessert.
We both were ready to go to bed early as neither of us had much sleep last night. So we climbed into bed ready for a good night sleep with AC. But it was not to be, about 20 minutes after we went to bed, the generator cut off once again. Ben restarted it, but it only ran a few minutes. Once more we were going to sleep using fans and outside breeze. Since it usually started cooling off after midnight, that was when I finally fell asleep.
June 9, 2021
When I awoke this morning, it was already 75 degrees, but felt like 83. Humidity was high. A little after 8:00, Ben began calling around to generator repair folks. He finally was connected to Cummings in Chesapeake who said because we were still under warranty, they would send someone out tomorrow. What a relief.
Since it was supposed to rain tonight and we would have to close all the windows, we decided to bite the bullet and get a slip at the York River Yacht Haven. We called and got their last slip, but at least now we would have shore power and air conditioning. In addition, the repairman could come to the slip and work on the boat. It seemed like the best solution.
We raised anchor, got fuel at the dock, and tied up at our new slip. It was not a floating slip, but at least it was wide enough that we could tie up in the middle. We would just have to see where we were once the tide went out. We plugged in the shore power and fired up the AC. Now I could make lunch without sweating to death!
While I was making lunch, Ben went outside and said, “It’s cooler out here than in there.” I said, “What?” Dang, the AC was not spitting water and not cooling after all! What a huge disappointment as we now were paying for the slip yet we would get less breeze in the marina than at anchor!
After I finished making tuna macaroni salad, we ate outside and contemplated what to do. Ben decided to go to the marina office to find out if there was an AC technician close by. When he returned to the boat, he was wheeling a portable AC in a cart. I was flabbergasted that the marina had lent us this. The lady who brought us ice must have really felt sorry for me when she saw how hot I was just tying up the boat.
Ben talked to three AC guys on the phone, and one said he might stop by tomorrow or the next day, but at least we had the portable unit until the AC was fixed. We thought we might be heading out on Sunday to explore Chesapeake Bay, but at this rate, we might be turning into dock lizards.
June 10, 2021
Bright and early this morning, low and behold the AC technician arrived at our boat. He said he would look at our system before starting on his other job. Then right after he showed up, the generator repairmen arrived.
I ate a quick breakfast out in the cockpit and took the laundry to the marina laundry mat.
The news was not good when I returned with our clean clothes. Both repairmen determined that we needed new circuit boards. Neither knew when we might get one….
June 11, 2021
Luckily, the generator was new and covered by warranty. The circuit board was ordered, and we were told the repairman would install it on Monday.
Now for the air conditioner. This was another problem as it was old and while we could replace the circuit board if one could be found somewhere, it may or may not fix the issue. Plus it was old enough that it might break again next week. We decided to go ahead and buy a new unit that would work with our existing air handlers and hoses. Ben found one online that was about 2/3 the cost of what we had been quoted. He ordered it shipped to the marina and we hoped that it would arrive sometime next week.
Meanwhile we continued with chores on the boat and began meeting our other boat owners on the dock who gave us encouragement that we were living their dream.
That evening Ben indicated that tomorrow was Saturday. I am glad he told me as my cousin was coming. Wow how time flies!
June 12, 2021
This morning, I slept in having taken a shower the night before. Stacie and Rob indicated they would be at the marina about 11:30. So I had plenty of time to be lazy. Ben got up and listened to the weather forecast and relaxed while drinking his coffee.
When Stacie arrived, we jumped in the car as they were taking us to brunch and then to Williamsburg. We were looking forward to the outing off the boat. Our first stop was at Shorty’s dinner where we all had brunch that was scrumptious. Ben and I shared a dish as it came with more food than either of us could each together!
Next we went to Colonial Williamsburg which was astounding! There were 300+ life size buildings that made up this living museum of what it was like back in the colonial days. I think Ben and I were both in awe. The museum was a huge undertaking and must take an army to upkeep throughout the year.
Next, we went a few miles to where the original Jamestown was being excavated. Why they built this first English Settlement in a swamp, one can only wonder. It was located on an island next to the York River and was a defensible location, but extremely swampy.
We stopped by the grocery store for a few more items before going back to the marina. We decided to end this splendid day with appetizers and drinks at the marina restaurant.
It was such a pleasant day reliving history, and visiting with my cousin that I usually only get to see once a year, if that!
June 13, 2021
While yesterday was somewhat misty and cloudy, today was a beautiful. The sun was shining, and it was about 75 degrees with cool breezes. The marina was a hive of activity, and we met our neighbors on both sides as well as friends of Stacie’s and Rob’s. Everyone was so nice. One boat neighbor gave us his card and said if we needed anything to call him and if he was around, which he often was, we were welcome to use his car to run errands. Now this man had only known us for 5 minutes!
We spent all day outside completing boat chores. I Semco’d some of the teak and cleaned the boat some, while Ben worked in the engines tightening belts, cleaning bilges etc. It was a very productive day and we both felt great achievement when we sat down to dinner.
We watch the movie Greyhound after dinner, and both agreed that this was 80 minutes that we would never get back. Unless you are a major history buff, I would skip it!
June 14, 2021
Yay!!!! Generator technician came today and inserted the new circuit board. So far the generator seemed to love its new board and worked like a champ! Hopefully this would continue for years to come. Now we were waiting on the new air conditioner to arrive later this week–we hoped!
For the rest of the day, we took care of business back home, like getting the roof fixed on our hail damage house. We also chatted with our friends from Scenic Route about where they were headed and gained insight on the next leg of our journey.
Basically, this was a day of rest.
June 15, 2021
Shelley and Don came back from Texas yesterday and invited us to go to Jamestown with them. We jumped at the chance to go back into Williamsburg when it was sunny and dry. We went first to where they used to blow glass at Jamestown. Then while we meant to go to the Jamestown Museum where the ship replicas were, but we ended up back at the excavation site. Since our tickets from the weekend were still valid, we decided to walk back down to the river and explore this site some more with Shelley and Don.
The day was beautiful, and we enjoy reading further about the history of Jamestown. Jamestown survived from 1607-1699 when the government and capital was moved to Williamsburg. We debated on going to the Jamestown Museum but by this time we were all starving as it was almost 14:00. So we skipped the museum with the boat replicas and went into Williamsburg for lunch.
We ate at the 2nd Street Bistro which we thought might be like a historic pub, but it turned out to be more like a Denny’s replica. It was apparent everywhere how difficult it had been for many businesses to come back from COVID. We frequently saw signs regarding being patience because of lack of servers or cooks. Today, we were told that the bartender didn’t show up for work as well as three of the 6 wait staff. Nevertheless, we didn’t have to wait too long before we were seated. I had some of the best French onion soup I had ever eaten. Everyone else also seemed to enjoy their lunch, either that, or we were all so hungry anything would have been good.
Don had not been to Colonial Williamsburg. Thus, after lunch we drove through the William and Mary College, the 2nd oldest college, after Harvard, and around the perimeter of the colonial museum.
We ran some errands on our way back to the marina and then reconvene at their boat, ClemenTime for dinner. Shelley made pulled pork nachos, which were superb, and dessert of strawberry shortcake. It had been a lovely day.
June 16, 2021
This morning, Ben went to help Don raise his new jib. They would have to wait until the wind laid to install the new main. Then we all met at the pool to relax and cool off. At first Shelly and I were the only ones at the pool but as it became hotter, more and more people join us.
So we left and went back to our perspective boats. We finished up some chores and I cooked an Italian sausage and pasta dish in the instant pot for dinner. It looked like the wind had laid so Ben and I walked back to ClemenTime to help Don install his new main. Don was itching to try out his new sails. Therefore we all decided that tomorrow we would sail 25 miles across the bay to Cape Charles.
We were still using the loaner portable air conditioner from the marina and we were very happy to have it. During the day, the boat quickly heated up, but luckily by evening the temperature began to cool off to the 60’s. So the boat became a tolerable place to sleep in the hulls. The portable AC did a good job keeping the cockpit cool, but it took a while for the heat in the hulls to dissipate.
June 17, 2021
We left on SV ClemenTime about 9:30 and went down the York River out into the Chesapeake Bay. The wind was light, and blowing from the north. So we had a nice reach across the bay. The sail trim was tweaked as they filled. We settled in for a relaxing sail. It was warm in the sun but almost chilly in the shade.
We saw quite a few tankers anchored off Cape Charles and a coast guard helicopter completing some exercises. There was a coast guard station in the harbor of Cape Charles.
We tied up at the marina assisted by deckhands as the current and wind were opposed to each other. We walked into town to look for a lunch spot. The town had more brick buildings than we expected as we had read it consisted of a large selection of Victorian structures.
After searching for a seafood place to eat in town to no avail, we ended up at Tim’s Place. It was a small diner with a lot of variety. I had some fresh flounder fish and chips. YUM!
It didn’t take long to walk the length of the town and since it was almost 1530, we decided we need to return to the boat, pump out the heads, and go back to Gloucester Point or we would not get there in the daylight.
It was breezier on the way back as we had 20 knot winds and about 4-6 foot swells. The Catalina 42 with its new sails handled the conditions well and we made good time getting back into York river where the wind and sea state settled a bit. We pulled into the slip at 19:30.
On the way across the bay we saw the Pride of Baltimore skirting across the sea headed north. We wondered if it was going to Baltimore for the 4th of July.
It was such a superb day all the way around—the sail, the fresh air, the town, the lunch and the visit. I think we would all sleep well tonight.
June 18, 2021
Since we had neglected completing any of our chores the last few days, we got after it today. I cleaned the saloon. There were so many crevices where dirt could accumulate
Ben worked on a PVC pipe system that we hoped would keep us off the docks and pilons when we had to tie up at a fixed dock. We anticipated storms on Monday. So he wanted to complete this project before any inclement weather.
It did not look like our new AC would arrive until Tues. So we would need to stay here in this lovely cove at least another week. Since it was cheaper to pay for a month than a daily rate, after 10 days, we paid up for the month. I’m not sure when we would start the journey north, but for now we would remain at Gloucester Point.
Boat life: Fixing boats in exotic places!
