When guest were staying with us we explored lovely Antigua by land using a rental car, but as of yet we had mainly stayed in Jolly Harbor, except for our jaunt over to Barbuda. The wind, while light, was going to be strange for the next week as it cycled from every compass point. In addition, a large swell unrelated to the wind was going to be running from the N to NW. Since Jolly Harbor was on the west side of the island, we thought it might be a good time to check out some of the other bays, and perhaps, some snorkeling.
March 6-7, 2023
Our first stop was in picturesque Deep Bay which was one bay south of the large St. John port. However, the hillside protected the boats from St. John’s din except for the occasional horns from the cruise ships as they left port. Deep Bay was charming surrounded by hillsides dotted with homes on one side and a fort ruin on the other. The hills provided a protective harbor but allowed for lovely cool breezes.
There was a wreck just as you entered the bay with its mast poking out of the top of the water. However, once you passed this obstacle the bay opened to a beautiful beach and that was lined with strips of blue and turquoise water. Turtles frequently popped their heads up before diving to dine on the grasses below. Awe so relaxing!
As the opening of the bay faced west, we were treated each night to spectacular sunsets and actually saw the green flash two more times. We have seen more green flashes here in Antigua than in all the years of sailing in the Caribbean.
In addition, we were delighted with a full moon that danced over our anchorage. It was surreal.
The beautiful water was so inviting we decided to jump in for a snorkel along the shore.
While the water appeared quite clear on the surface, the lighting and sand made the snorkeling less than perfect. Nevertheless, we saw a variety of fish in difference sizes and colors. Some fish were black and white striped, yellow and white, or even purple and yellow.
I wasn’t sure why most of the colorful fans were laying down in the water torn from their base. Maybe a big surge or storm had ripped them loose. However, there were some other lovely coral and sea anemones attached to the rocks surrounding the shore.
It was a refreshing swim off the boat. Afterwards we enjoyed walking along the beach and people watching. Charter cats came frequently to drop folks off on the beach. While they didn’t stay very long, it could be overwhelming at times. It was good to swim back to the solitude of the boat.
Besides frequent charter boats and jet skiers blowing through the anchorage, the only other real downside to this beautiful bay was the nightly smoke from the trash fires. I know the islanders have to rid themselves of trash somehow, but it required that we close up the boat each night rather than letting the cool breeze penetrate while we slept. It was a good thing that it was not the middle of the hot summer.
March 8, 2023
As the breeze would continue to clock around to the west, we decided to motor over to the east side of the island and check out Nonsuch Bay. We said goodbye to Deep Bay and its impressive rock formations.
We made way our beyond the reefs on the north side of Antigua. It was mostly a motor around the island as the water was “freaky flat,” said Ben.
While the wind finally picked up it stayed on the nose all the way to Nonsuch Bay where we entered the cut by Green Island. We had planned to anchor in a bay at Green Island, but they were much smaller than anticipated and already were occupied. So we motored across the beautiful Nonsuch bay to Hughes Bay in front of the Escape Resort and Rokuni Restaurant.
Doug, on Black River, joined us later in the afternoon. He had gone way out and found some wind and sailed all the way here on one tack. Remarkable! He invited us to join him and a friend at Rokuni Restaurant and we thought it was a grand idea! They even allowed Crewie to dine with us. The restaurant was very yacht friendly. Security met us at the dock and helped us tie up. A waitress escorted us through the beach and up the steps to the lovely restaurant. We arrived right as the sun was setting which was made for a lovely picture looking out over the pool.
The food and atmosphere were delightful and we had a wonderful evening visiting with friends while the full moon lit up the night.
March 9, 2023
We said goodbye this morning to SV Black River as they were going to sail to the south sid of Antigua so that his friend could catch a plane tomorrow. We decided to enjoy this beautiful bay for another day. The bay which was protected by low lying reefs appeared more like a lake than an open bay. As we dinghied around, we were reminded of the limestone cliffs and foliage of the Texas Hill Country.
We enjoyed relaxing and the gorgeous weather at Nonsuch Bay.
March 10, 2023
We left Nonsuch Bay this morning to sail around to Falmouth on the south side of Antigua. We thought the wind was going to be coming from the N to NE, but the weather had other ideas. We negotiated the reefs exiting the lovely bay and turned south and pulled the schreecher, but not long after, an offshore squall to the east sucked all the wind away from us and we had to furl the sail. The wind never did fill in afterwards. So we ended up having to motor the whole way. Nevertheless, it was a nice day as the storms to the east stayed east. So we enjoyed the topography of the island. The cliffs were serrated in multi-colors and looked as if they had been sliced with a knife.
We saw Shirley Heights overlook from the water and pieces of the fort high on the cliff above.
There were a number of boats traversing the waterway while the wind was light and amiable to travel in any direction.
We entered Falmouth Harbour between the rocky point and a beautifully landscaped point.
We anchored on the West side of the bay right next to our friend on SV Black River.
I had been craving a hamburger for the last week. So we went ashore near the Antigua Yacht Club and found an amazing large hamburger. I simply could not eat it all!
Falmouth Harbour was full of mega yachts of every size and type and several marinas. It was a very busy put pretty anchorage.
Falmouth bay was protected by hillsides with clusters of manicured homes.
This evening, when I looked out my porthole, at first, I thought I was seeing the moon over a miniature Miami skyline, but then I quickly realized the masts lit up almost looked like skyscraper outlines. It was a beautiful sight and quite the illusion.
March 11, 2023
We had been wanting to snorkel at Galleon Beach ever since we had read about the reef. The weather was calm today. So we decided to dingy over to Freemen Bay right outside English Harbour. However, we were dismayed when we arrived as the beach and bay were covered in a layer of Sargassum! The water was super clear, but I did not want to swim through all that seaweed!
Thus, we dinghied around English Harbour instead where Nelson’s Dockyard was located (for more information about this wonderful place see Antigua: Adorable and Historical). We had walked around here several times but it was a different perspective from the water seeing all the grand yachts up close and personal as well as the historical buildings.
This was a very important harbour for the English Navy back in the 1700. A fort was built on the point of the harbour for protection.
After a lovely dinghy ride, we left English Harbour and Freemen Bay behind. The Pillars of Hercules were very majestic at the mouth of the bay.
We dinghied back to Falmouth Harbor where Ben cleaned the boat’s speedo and I swam laps around the boat. Then we watched Saturday Harbor Races as they sped right past our boat. After our nap, Doug came over for homemade pizza later in the evening. I would say, except for not being able to snorkel, this was a perfect day in the life of a “cruiser:”
- Exploring in the dinghy
- Swimming
- Fixing something
- Watching races
- Napping
- Visiting with friends!
It was a great day!
March 12-13
We spent the next couple of days catching up with housekeeping chores. We were amazed at the thousands of tiny barnacles that had attached to our hull since we had cleaned them in Barbuda. So Ben hooked up the Scuba Buddy and we went after them. Cleaning the hulls was one way to get a lot of exercise, because it was not easy swimming and trying to clean a moving boat in chop!
March 14, 2023
Today we were finishing our circumnavigation around Antigua and going back to Jolly Harbour where we would get the laundry done, reprovision and wait for a weather window to head back to Guadeloupe sometimes next week.
However, we had a little excitement as we finished our island tour. Ben spotted whales off our stern. The picture does not really tell the story, but it does capture the moment. It was a fun week sailing around Antigua and enjoying some of its beautiful bays.
We have loved being in Antigua these many weeks, but are anxious to get back to Guadeloupe to explore more extensively. So stay with us! If you would like emails regarding future posts so you don’t miss out on this adventure, complete the form below.
Also if you have a favorite bay in Antiqua be sure to tell us about it in the comments!
