Impressions
We have found Antigua to be quite different from some of the other Caribbean islands we’ve visited. I always imagined that Antigua was basically flat, but I was wrong. There are small mountains and rolling hills, yet there are no towering volcanic mountains like Granada and Dominica. Thus, the island appears dryer as cactus abound among the other vegetation, and it is not covered with a mass of jungle. In fact there are green meadows with livestock and a good many of the houses have yards with fences.
The area around Jolly Harbor, where we are staying at the moment, reminds me a little of Florida with its canals and condominiums.
St. John, the capital, is the hub of the island. Most major roads spoke out from the city causing us to almost always have to head towards St. John prior to another destination. While the island is smaller in both size and population than Grenada, there are several traffic lights which are not found on Grenada. Most sights seem to be about 30-40 minutes from the capital and sprawl across the island. There are large supermarkets and other stores surrounding St. John. All in all the island has more of a “western” feel than many of the more rural islands we have toured.
This is not to say it is not beautiful, but its beauty lies in its white sandy beaches (they boast of 365 beaches), and the jagged cliffs which fall into the sea and provide protective coves of beautiful clear turquoise water. Of course, the sunsets are not too shabby either!
The grasses covering the rolling hills mesmerize you as they sway in the wind. The colorful houses remind you that you are still in the Caribbean as will the lilt of the spoken language by the locals. We have enjoyed learning about this, new to us, island both its culture and its history.
History
Antigua is steeped in British history as it did not frequently change hands like many of the islands. This history is evident around the island, but more so in the Falmouth and English Harbour area which are two large side by side protected bays.
Nelson’s Dockyard National Park
Nelson’s Dockyard National Park consists of Nelson’s Dockyard situated in English Harbour, and Shirley Height Fort remnants as well as Clarence House nestled in the surrounding hillsides. Nelson’s Dockyard is one of the only continuously working dockyard from the 1700 Georgian era. It was named after England’s Admiral Horatio Nelson who resided there from 1784-1787. The buildings surrounding English Harbour have been restored and are a living museum as they are used today by well known sailmakers, charters, riggers and such.
Mega yachts as well as other boats regularly use the wharf and harbor as a safe haven, and a place to explore the many sights, beaches and restaurants.
Clarence House is perched up on the hillside overlooking the bay. It was built in 1804 for the Navy Commissioner.
Shirley Heights and the Overlook afford spectacular views of the surrounding area as well as decaying fort remnants that tell the story of the many soldiers who lived and worked in the area.
Talisker Whiskey Atlantic Rowing Challenge
History is continuing to be made at the Dockyard even today as rowers set out from Europe to Antigua to conquer the Atlantic in five, four, three, two person teams or solo boats. We were lucky enough to witness the arrival of a two-man team. It took them a little over 50 days to make the crossing and they had to carry all their own food and water on the craft. Wowser!
Museum of Antiqua and Barbuda
There are many other sights of historical significance around the island such as the Museum of Antiqua and Barbuda which is housed in the old Courthouse in St. John. It provides a timeline and overview of the islands’ histories including information about their numerous forts and sugar plantations driven by windmills that covered the islands. The Arawak, Caribs and African slaves all played a large part in the history of Antiqua.
Betty Hope Plantation
Betty Hope Plantation was the first large scale sugar plantation on Antigua established in 1650. One of the windmills has been restored and much of the grounds have undergone excavation and restoration since the 1990s.
Other Antiqua Attractions
Devils Bridge
This is a spectacular sight especially when the wind is blowing. There are several blow holes, one of which the water travels under a natural bridge and spouts upward on the other side. The views from this point are breathtaking!
Beaches
Of course you can’t visit Antigua without going to the beach! The limestone and volcanic rock afford some beautiful beaches. We visited Half Moon Beach, Long Bay Beach, Pigeon Point Beach, Jolly Beach and we drove by many, many others. We even attended a sunset cruiser meet up at Mosquito Beach.
Friends, Friends, Friends!
One of the things that made traveling from Grenada to Antigua so much fun was the friends who met us along the way. Since Thanksgiving we have had the pleasure of hanging with:
John Harrington-Grenada to St. Lucia
Sherri and Flynn-St. Lucia to Dominica
Vanessa and Mark (arrived on SV Day One)-Dominica
Irene and Bill-Dominica
Don and Shelley-Dominica to Antigua
Gary, Susan and John (one day off a cruise ship)-Antigua
Christy-Antigua
Amy, Doug and Crewie (arrived on SV Black River)-Antigua
Karen and Ken Fisher (arrived on SV Snoopin’ Around)-Antigua
Don and Shelley sailed with us from Dominica to Guadeloupe to Antigua. It was great having the company as we crossed two passages during the journey. I think Don had a great time sailing; he saw 12 knots as we coasted over and down the waves. Shelley was a great help as allergies seemed to be giving me fits for the last several months. She assured the guys never went hungry when I was down for the count!
We had a whopper of a day when Gary and Susan and Gary’s dad, John, hustle off their cruise ship to join us exploring Antigua by car. We explored the Dockyard, Shirley Heights and ate at a wonderful restaurant called Boom! They got to witness an unexpected event when the Atlantic Rowers arrived at the Dockyard. It was a fast, furious, fun day!
My longtime friend and adventurer, Christy stayed with us for a week on Antigua. We rented a car and traveled across the island for 4 days. We ate at places like Roadhouse, Bumpkins and of course Kitra’s Kitchen.
We even treated ourselves to a lobster dinner on the boat. The night was full of laughter as we learned to clean, grill and eat the yummy spiney Caribbean lobster.
Christy saw rainbows and fantastic sunsets almost everyday. Amazingly enough, she even witnessed a green flash one night. She and Ben shared coffee together each morning and she took a marvelous sunrise picture of Black River.
Of course we hung out with Amy and Doug from SV Black River enjoying Valentines Dinner together on Daggers Down and beach time with Crewie!
Boat Work, wah, wah, wah….
Well it wouldn’t be a new island if we didn’t have to have some immediate boat projects! Just after we arrived our starboard engine would not stay started. Ben felt sure it was the fuel line, but each time he blew it out, the engine would sputter and quit again. Turns out that there was growth around the pick up valve and it was getting in the line even after he blew it out. Soooooo, after Shelley and Don left, we went to the work dock where Ben spent 5 days pumping out all the fuel into a fifty gallon barrel, scrubbing the tanks, cleaning the fuel, and putting it all back in. What a messy, dirty, thankless job, but the fix it man persevered and got it done. He had to wear long sleeves for several days after the nasty diesel burns he got!
Then just when you think its safe to go sailing again, right as Christy was leaving, the batteries began to fail! Yikes, back to the work dock we went. We hoped that it was just one battery bringing the rest down, but after some deducing it became clear that we needed a whole new battery bank! Oh boy that totally sucked! Luckily, Budget Marine on island had what we needed and was able to deliver them to the boat. So with some expert help we are hoping that Daggers will be anew again real soon!!
Nonetheless, after some momentary depression and some commiserate with friends, we are keeping our chin up. We still need to replace the engine MDI boxes that Doug and Amy brought to us, but then hopefully, we can continue exploring Antigua and set our sights on our next destination.
Oh and by the way, we were interviewed for a podcast. Watch the Daggers Down Facebook for more details and the link when it becomes available.
Hope you’ve enjoy getting to know this adorable and historical island as much as we have. Stay with us to see what happens next during this Cruising Season of 2022-23.
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Stay warm and happy!
