For such a small island, there are so many things to do in Dominica. We are going to share with you some of our favorites but be advised this is NOT an all-inclusive list. There are many other activities such as a strenuous hike to the Boiling Lakes which is a 3-hr. hike one way. We did not participate in this.
The sites and activities in this blog are family friendly and can be completed by most able bodied people. I did not find many places to be wheelchair friendly, but I saw folks using crutches to navigate some of the waterfall trails which can be arduous as the steps are uneven and different heights, but I applaud tenacity, because most people can do circles around this rickety old body. So travel on!!
The frame of reference for this blog is from the north end of the island as we use the Portsmouth mooring balls at PAYS (Portsmouth Association of Yacht Services) as our base. The PAYS guys are wonderful and make sure your boat and dinghy are safe. They will also check you in with customs and provide tours. The mooring balls are only around $10 US a night. You can’t beat that!
When you arrive in Dominica by boat, I would suggest you take a tour with Grey Goose at PAYS to get the lay of the land. He is an awesome tour guide who is informative and fun!
Then we believe the best way to see the rest of the island is to use the map on your smartphone and rent a car. We rent cars from Silver Lining. Gary is a standup guy and will bring the car to PAYS for you. Most of the roads in Dominica are excellent (for an island), but you need to remember to drive on the left.
So lets get started!!
A. North End of the Island
The northern part of Dominica, as you leave Portsmouth, is quite rural and beautiful. There are several drives through the mountains that will take your breath away.
1. Cana Heritage Park
This small park is in the further northwest corner of the island. The views are spectacular and worth the drive. The islands of Guadeloupe are visible in the distance from the mountaintop park.
2. Toucari Bay
As you drive to Cana Heritage Park you will pass through Toucari. The snorkeling from shore on either side of the bay is fun. We snorkeled the south side of the bay this trip and were rewarded with coral (that was making a comeback), loads of fish and even squid. Pick a calm day when the wind is not blowing from the north so that you can snorkel all the way to the point.
We were told that on the north side of the bay there were bubbles rising from the underwater fissures. We opted for lunch at Keepin’ It Real instead of more snorkeling as we had worked up quite an appetite. The local food was yummy, filling and quite inexpensive as were the BBCs!
3. Northern drive across the point
The drive to Cold Soufriere is spectacular! Pictures do not do it justice because of the expanse of the beauty.
4. Fort Shirley
Another site on the north side of the island is Fort Shirley. From the harbor it looks almost like a cute hotel on the hillside, but it is actually a renovated fort. It is an interesting place to explore with some amazing views of the channel between Dominica and Guadeloupe, the harbor and Portsmouth. Some people hike from town to the fort, but we chose to drive to the Cruise Ship Terminal area. Tell security you would like to tour the fort and they will direct you where to pay your fee. At this point, you can buy a “site park pass” that is good for a week and will get you into most of the waterfalls and the Indian river. You may also buy the pass at PAYS.
It is just a short hike up the hill on a trail from the base of the Cruise Ship Terminal to Fort Shirley.
B. Exploring the Rugged Atlantic East Coast
The views are stunning as you travel down the east coast. You will find yourself wanting to frequently stop and take pictures. If you are on a tour with Grey Goose, he will stop when requested, but he also knows the best places for pictures.
1. Chocolate Factory
Most tours will take you to the chocolate factory. It may be small, but the chocolate is divine. They give you a free tour of the facility and let you taste as many flavors of chocolate as you want. We are partial to the tangerine and spice flavors but you can’t go wrong with any of them!
For a complete account of the tour check out our previous blog: Dominica Pictorial 2022
While the road to the factory is narrow and somewhat hard to find, you can locate the it by following the map app on the phone. We have been there many times to bring friends or simply buy some chocolate. The staff are super friendly, and the vegetation is rich. We met a lady who indicated she had been coming to the island for 30 years and had planted most of the plants in the area. She is an artist and looked at the hillside as a blank canvas to create. She has done a wonderful job!
2. Red Rocks of Calibishie
When at the Chocolate Factory, you are around the corner from the Red Rocks and Red Rock Cuisine where you can buy a drink or, in season, a bite to eat. They also will take the nominal entry fee to the Red Rocks trail. It is worth every penny. Be advised that the rocks can be slippery when wet, and don’t get too close to the coastline as waves explode against the rocks! The beauty is very unique!
3. Kalinago Barana Aute
Finally on the East side of the island a little over 10 minutes south of the airport is the road that enters the Kalinago Reserve (sometimes known as Carib, but since that is a French given name, the locals there do not recognize the name Carib.)
Pay close attention to the winding road to locate the Cultural Center. The views along the drive through the mountains are breathtaking. There is a small entrance fee at the cultural center, and we would suggest you pay the extra for the tour guide. The guide’s information is invaluable to understanding the site. Afterwards give the vendors on the road a look. I bought some beautiful reed woven trivets, placemats, and coasters.
These proud people who were fisherman by trade were granted land where fishing is almost impossible because of the rough Atlantic coast. So they have learned to be farmers.
4. Pagua Bar and Grill at the Pagua Bay House
At some point as you are traversing the East coast or going to and from the airport, you may find yourself famished and looking for somewhere to eat. We cannot recommend highly enough the Pagua Bar and Grill. The view is spectacular up on the hillside overlooking the waves as they bash into the shore. In addition, the food is superb along with their signature rum punch (but be careful it can sneak up and bite you!). The staff is friendly and the proprietor is delightful.
C. Discovering the West Side of the Island
1. Syndicate Falls
Not long after you leave Portsmouth traveling south on the western coast road look for a sign on the left pointing to Syndicate. Follow the smartphone app to Syndicate Falls. As you negotiate the somewhat rugged road, continue, even when you think you have gone too far, to the small park entry area. There is a nominal fee to enter the park and a washroom. You can purchase a cool refreshing beverage after your hike to the falls (or before if you are so inclined).
When looking for the park entry, we didn’t go far enough down the road at first, because we thought the road was running out. Thus, we ended up wandering through a beautiful farm until a friendly farmer pointed us in the right direction. We expressed how fortunate we were to have gotten lost, because it allowed us to explore the abundant farm.
After paying the entrance fee, the hike to Syndicate Falls begins on a small lane down the mountain. Soon however it becomes apparent that several river crossings are necessary to reach the falls (3, if I remember correctly). Therefore, wear comfortable walking shoes that can be gotten wet. The hike is fun, beautiful and not too difficult (I mean, I made it!) and well worth the effort.
The falls are stunning as they surge over the rock face of the cliff to the pool below. Then the water rushes into the river as it wanders down the mountain. If we had thought about it, we would have taken a picnic and spent more time enjoying the sights and sounds of the intense waterfall.
2. Mero Beach
A funky colorful Mero Beach sign will indicate when you have arrived at Mero Beach. This is a very popular place for cruise ship passengers. Therefore, waiting for an off day might be advisable unless people watching is on the agenda. It is a good lunch stop for local food and you can rent chairs on the pretty beach and relax.
3. Roseau, the Capital of Dominica
Continuing south on the west coast road, after passing the S-mart (a good place to purchase some groceries), the traffic picks up considerably as you enter the heart of Roseau. It is the largest town in Dominica and extremely busy. Be careful of the one-way streets. The phones apps do not always get them right! Roseau is a good place to buy souvenirs, provisions, and spirits. The Fresh Market is a fairly large grocery store, and deals can be had at the Cash and Carry. There are a lot of souvenir vendors by the Cruise Ship dock. Parking is a chore; so be patient.
4. Champagne Beach
About 10-11 km south of Roseau on the west coast road, is Champagne Beach. It is a nice place to snorkel and see the underwater gas bubbles rising from the volcanic fissures. When we were there, a very knowledgeable and helpful lady let us rent a couple of chairs to stow our belongings. She gave us the location of the “bubbles” and where to find the best snorkeling.
Here are a couple of pictures I took from the internet.
5. Scotts Head
As you continuing south on the west coast road, you will travel through several fishing villages. At the southernmost end, is the town of Scotts Head and a marine reserve. To enter the reserve requires a fee of $5 EC a person which allows you to cross the isthmus to the tip of the island. To the right is the bay where people snorkel when the bay is calm. On the left is the channel between Dominica and Martinique where powerful waves beat against the shoreline. Take the narrow one lane road straight up to the top for a wonderful scenic view of the west coast to Roseau as well as a cannon left from a fort built in the 1700s.
6. Chez Wen
A nice stop for a waterfront lunch of local food is Chez Wen. The food was delicious and the spot on the water relaxing.
D. Central Island Beauty
Waterfalls, waterfalls and more waterfalls. Most of these waterfalls can be accessed from either coast road except for Trafalgar Falls and the Ti Tou Gorge. These last two as accessed from Roseau.
1. Spanny Falls
Pay at the booth on main road where flowers are abundant. Then drive down the one lane road (a few pull outs if you meet someone) to the parking area. There is a nice walking trail with pea gravel and steps leading to the falls. The vegetation is lush and tropical.
The waterfall gushes from a fern wall into a crystal-clear pool where swimming is allowed.
There is a second waterfall above the first one. Look for the rope to climb up on the far side of the trail. Be aware that this trail is not landscaped and can be very slippery and muddy when wet. We stayed put with our feet firmly on the ground, but we watched two women make their way up.
The colorful vegetation made this waterfall extra special!
2. Jaco Falls
Jaco Falls is very close to Spanny Falls. The entrance fee is paid at the booth by the road. There is an adjacent washroom also. It is a short walk down to the falls on mainly concrete stairs.
The smaller picturesque waterfall tumbles from the cliff over a rock pinnacle at the base. There is a shallow pool for swimming. A beautiful river runs down from the falls through large and small boulders.
3. Emerald Pool
Emerald Pool can be a very popular place and best visited when cruise ships are not on the island, or early or late in the day. The entry is a large pavilion and a good size parking area with vendors selling their wares.
There is a circular gravel path through the dense tropical rainforest to and from the falls. The “exit” path is longer but beautiful and encompasses several overlooks, one from which you can see the ocean in the distance. There are also several picnic areas with tables.
The river from the falls meanders through a deep ravine covered with lush vegetation. Water rushes under the bridge creating several mini falls like a Budweiser commercial.
The falls themselves cascade down a cliff wall into a delightful swimming hole. An overhang lines the pool as well as large boulders as the water tumbles into the river below.
4. Trafalgar Falls
The drive to Trafalgar Falls is almost as delightful as the falls themselves. The road winds through the jungle just a few miles from the capital city of Rosseau. Trafalgar Falls are made up of two falls. The skinnier of the falls sometimes named the Papa falls plunges 125 feet. The second wider falls known as the Mama falls plummets 75 feet. The two falls cascade from the rock cliffs to large volcanic boulders below. Then the streams rush through the rocks to a small pool and onward to the river. You can climb up through the boulders to find a nice spot to cool your body from the hike up.
A pea gravel path and steps lead down to a concrete path. Then, steps rise up, up and up through the dense jungle to a pavilion where both falls are visible. From the pavilion, you can hike down the steps and through the boulders under the falls. Scamper through the boulders with care as they can be slick in places.
5. River Rock Café
A lovely restaurant on the way to Trafalgar Falls with a beautiful view and good local food is River Rock Café. It is the perfect place to sit on the patio, watch the hummingbirds and listen to the babbling river.
6. Ti Tou Gorge
This is one of the most surreal places I have ever visited. It can be tremendously popular when cruise ships are docked. We went at 3:30 in the afternoon and were the only people in the gorge. I think this added to the wonderment of the experience. Be sure to use a guide as they take pictures for you using your cell phone in waterproof bags. We used Ronnie and he was wonderfully patient as we negotiated the gorge to the waterfall.
The water is extremely cold. You are required to wear a life jacket which they provide, but in addition you may want to wear a swim shirt for warmth. Ronnie called the water “refreshing,” but I called it downright frigid. Nevertheless, once you get past the initial shock, it is well worth the coldness for the experience.
We entered the gorge (almost cavernlike) and swam though it, with the sunlight streaming from above, to the waterfall at the end. Ronnie helped each of us stand under the waterfall (which is very powerful) so that he could take a picture of us all.
Ben and I both would highly recommend this experience and were so glad that Vanessa suggested it as we might have missed it otherwise.
Take a look at these pictures!
Note that a pass can be bought which is good for a week and will cover the cost of all the falls as well as the Indian River and Fort Shirley for a set price. This is the least expensive way to visit all the sites. The PAYS (Portsmouth Association of Yacht Services) sell the passes as well as the Emerald Falls, Trafalgar Falls and Fort Shirley.
E. Local Portsmouth Eateries
I cannot end this blog without mentioning two of my favorite restaurants in Portsmouth.
1. Maford House Café
For a nice lunch or a great happy hour spot try Maford House Café. Whitney will whip up some delicious food including homemade bread and make you feel right at home! You can hang out on the porch or in the beer garden by the water. Don’t forget to bring a container so that you can buy and carry home some delicious cheesecake bites!
We met a number of Canadians at Maford’s who ended up coming to our boat for a full moon happy hour. Fun times are always to be had at Maford House Café!
2. Infinity Bar and Grill
Another favorite establishment where we like to eat is at Infinity Bar and Grill located right on the river. Nerik, the owner will assure that you not only have some amazing food but also a great experience.
Oh what! Don’t forget to join the Sunday night Bar-B-Que at the PAYS pavilion. For a small price you can eat all the food and drink all the rum punch you want!
F. Conclusion
As you can see there is so much to do and see on Dominica that a few days will NOT be enough. We have been here twice for several weeks at a time and there are still many things we want to do such as:
Portsmouth area
Snorkel tour
Indian River Tour
West
Hang out at Coconut Beach
Snorkel Salisbury beach
Snorkel at Scotts Head
East
Hike to Batibou or Number One Beach
Hang out at Woodford Hill Beach
Central
Drive to and picnic at Freshwater Lake
We hope you will find this blog enlightening and helpful when you come to explore this wonderous island: Dominica!
For more information, please feel free to review two prior blogs:
Or
Dominica, A Bountiful and Lucious Island of Proud People
An ebooks that you might find useful is:
Dominica (link to Amazon)
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Thanks again for following along with us on this amazing adventure!
