I had been looking forward to the arrival at Salt Whistle Bay, Mayreau for over two years! Not really, but it was one of the places I had expected to explore when we bought our boat. Mayreau and the Tobago Cays are two of my most favorite places in the Caribbean. Previously when we had the opportunity to visit, we had been on a charter boat with a schedule that left little room for deviation. Thus, I always had to leave before I was ready.
May 30, 2022, Memorial Day
We left Bequia at 1200 and sailed past the unique looking Moonhole Resort which was supposed to be an “off the grid” hotel originally designed and built by a couple in the 1960s.
We sailed to Mayreau with a buddy boat, Change Up occupied by our friends, Kevin, Becky, Jackie, and Luke. We met these guys on the hard in Cape Charles and have hopscotch down from Chesapeake Bay with them, crossing paths every so often.
The sail was super nice as the swells were with us and the wind was blowing around 20 knots. We traveled briskly at 7-10 knots. Ben was a happy camper sailing as he could play with the sails and make Daggers Down go fast!
We arrived about 0300 to an already crowded Salt Whistle Bay, but one of the boat boys took us right up to the beach where we anchored. Change Up took the last mooring ball. I was glad we arrived when we did as about 5 more boats entered the bay after us. They had to anchor towards the back, except for the loud, obnoxious boat that squeeze in next to us.
I must explain the term “boat boys.” The first time we encountered boat boys was years ago in the Pitons of St. Lucia. They were very aggressive and fought over who was going to help you with your mooring ball. They expected a tip afterwards, but what they really wanted was to sell you a tour. For the most part, over the years, the “boat boys” have become less aggressive and more helpful. This is especially true in the Tobago Cays as there are no shore amenities. So the guys in their colorful motor boats offer to bring you ice, fresh fish, banana bread, and/or sell you a T-shirt or two. However, if you say you don’t need anything, they will be on their way.
Some of the “boat boys” have been peddling their wares and assisting cruisers for over 38 years as in Mr. Quailty of Tobago Cays. Thus, the term boat boy does not really mean “boy” at all. It was a term designated years ago when many of these guys were younger. Most are just trying to be helpful while making a living as best they possibly can.
After getting the boat settled, Ben and I swam to shore and walked around. The bay was very calm but the water on the backside of the island was quite rough with breakers hitting the beach repeatedly.
Further down the beach, we found a beach bar that also was a small grocery market. Becky and Kevin met us. We sat and enjoyed some adult company and drinks.
May 31, 2022, Tues
Change Up only had a few days to explore before they needed to make their way to Grenada. So we weighed anchor and moved around to the Tobago Cays. This area was made up of several small Cays surrounded by a horseshoe reef which afforded mostly calm waters, but an abundance of breeze. Kiteboarders loved this area.
I enjoyed the beauty and tranquility. I could sit and watch the waves crash over the reef, and listen to the water lap the boat all day.
Becky and Kevin invited us over for dinner where we had a great time visiting with the family. They have the best children who are fun, intelligent and well mannered.
June 1, 2022, Wed.
After a few showers this morning, the wind settled making it a perfect day for some snorkeling. The water was so clear!
We took the dinghy to the beach by the turtle reserve. I saw lots of fish, cool coral, colorful starfish, and at least 6 turtles!
One turtle was quite large and old, or should I say, mature. He didn’t care that I was taking his picture. In fact, I had to get out of his way as he swam right towards me.
Becky and Kevin also snorkeled at the reef and said it was wonderful. In addition to the gorgeous water here, the sunsets were simply out of this world, especially after a few rain showers.
The Change Up crew came over for a visit and we said our goodbyes. They would sail onto Grenada and fly back the states for a while. Hopefully we would meet up with them again somewhere in Grenada.
June 2, 2022, Thurs.
After Change Up left this morning, we moved the boat between two other Cays and snorkeled at the tip of one of them. The snorkeling was fantastic with loads of fish, brain coral, fans, and other underwater fauna. We even saw two 3-4 foot gracefully swimming stingrays.
I wished I had pictures to show you, but my underwater camera bit the dust. Boo hiss! I don’t know when I’ll be able to get another. It might be time to finally learn to use the Go Pro!
For dinner we had the last of the snapper we acquired in Bequia, the last of the canned peas from Martinique and some stuffed grape leaves from Change Up. It was all good, but I think Ben liked the dessert of Apple Crisp the best.
The sunset at dinnertime was breathtaking!
June 3, 2022, Fri.
We had planned to snorkel again this morning, but after Ben listened to the weather, we decided we needed to seek a more sheltered bay to hang in for a few days. The wind was going to build and bring squalls with it.
Therefore, we spent the morning completing custom online forms to check out of St. Vincent and the Grenadines, and into Grenada. We planned to wait out the weather in Tyrell Bay, Carriacou which was part the country of Grenada.
By 1100, we had pulled anchor and left Tobago Cays. I was not ready to depart yet, but at least I had spent more time in the area than ever before. I made Ben promise we would be back soon as there were many more bays to explore and much more snorkeling that we needed to do! We sailed past Mayreau on to Clifton Bay, Union Island to check out of the Grenadines.
We arrived at Clifton Bay and, after waving off the boat boy who wanted us to use his mooring, we found an anchor spot. Then we appeased the boat boy by allowing him to take our trash for a fee. Ben went into Customs, but they were closed until 0100 for lunch. So he wandered around town and bought some fruit and vegetables from the market.
Meanwhile, I made some fish tacos for lunch with the leftover snapper. When Ben returned, we ate lunch and got underway around 0200. It did not look like we would make it to Carriacou before customs closed for the day. So, we settled in with the jib and except for one squall where Ben got to surf waves at 11 knots, we moseyed across the channel at 4-6 knots.
Tomorrow we will check into Grenada where we will wait out hurricane season.
I can’t wait to explore all that Grenada has to offer and get to know the lovely people on the islands!
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Thanks again for following along with us as we continue our Caribbean exploration!
